Thursday, April 29, 2010

City of Life - a review

Last night I went to see City of Life, the first Emirati feature film made by an Emirati and filmed in Dubai. SPOILER ALERT: Before continuing on, if you do plan on seeing the film, don't read on--there may be some spoilers but I'll try to keep it to a minimum.

Synopsis: The movie follows three lives in Dubai, each person representing a prominent population in the city. First, there's the Indian taxi driver who came to Dubai for a better life. Next, we have the Eastern European flight attendant, who meets a charming English businessman and falls in love. Last, there's the story of a wealthy Local twenty-something and his best friend. All three of their stories are carried out fairly separately until they all collide (literally and figuratively) in a life-altering car accident.

Overall the film made a lasting impression. For a movie coming from the Gulf region, it's risky in content matter and for a young director's first feature film, it's a great start. It's most appealing to those who live in or know Dubai, since a main theme in the movie is capturing the character of the city. But if this movie was presented as a mainstream feature film, coming out of Warner Brother's studio, I would not be impressed.

What's cool about the film is that each story line is in a different language. The Indian taxi driver speaks Hindi, while the flight attendant speaks English, and the Locals speak in Arabic. It's not difficult to follow the film--the Director does a good job keeping these separated and the subtitles are easy enough to read. The script had its strong points, but overall, the dialogue can be a little sloppy, there were some points where the transition between topics just didn't exist, and the conversation was obviously forced.

Unfortunately, the film itself lacked transitions as well--sometimes making you wonder, "Oh wait, we're here now?"

The strength of the film comes in the storyline of the rich, young Local man, Faisal, and his not-so-rich young Local friend, Rashid. The movie exposes the audience to a side of Dubai that people have heard of, but haven't necessarily seen by representing the daily ongoings of young Local men. While their lives seem foreign to most outsiders, the film does a good job of getting the audience to empathize with these characters. With the exception of a bizarre twist in the middle of the movie, I would have liked to see their story further developed. The story of the Indian taxi driver is also a strong point for the movie. You see, in part, the wealth disparity between the South Asian population in Dubai and the rest of the people who live here. You get attached to the taxi driver named Basu, who is an aspiring Bollywood actor. Your hopes are raised with his and your dreams are shattered with his.

As a whole, the movie did cover some subjects you wouldn't expect to come out of the Gulf region. Topics included alcohol and sex--big taboos for this part of the world. There was even a pregnancy scandal (represented by the Western expats, of course) that covered ugly consequences of getting pregnant out of wedlock in this country. The movie gave some insight into the lives of Local Emirati men, particularly the younger population, and their work ethic (or lack thereof). These guys live privileged lives--sleeping all day, staying up all night, driving the fanciest cars and buying the most expensive things--without working for a cent of it. It also showed the less privileged side of Dubai, providing a quick snapshot of the lives of poor immigrant workers (mostly Indian and Filipinos). What took away from the uniqueness of the film, however, was that every cliché that could be thrown into a film was included in this one.

All the negatives aside, however, the movie is a captivating one, especially for those who are familiar with Dubai. The city is the main character of the movie, and the rest are just supporting actors. The film is Ali F. Mostafa's first feature, and I'll have to say, if this is his starting point, I'm excited to see what he can create with a little more experience.

Check out the trailer at www.cityoflifefilm.com , and if you're in Dubai, go watch the movie!

Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Best read with a heavy Arabic accent

"Hi geerrrlzz...would you like to dance? All of us?" (Makes a large hand gesture to signify who all of us are)
Note: There were two of us, and then there was him. All of us = three people.

A recently received FB message, soon after I changed my "Current City" to Dubai.
"Your name sound Egyptian but your sweet face not. Where you from?"

"Habby Beerrrrzday to you...habby beerrzzday, habby beerzday, habby beerzday to youuu." Luckily, it was not my "beerrrzday"--someone else had the pleasure of this serenade.

You get the idea.

Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Some important vocabulary

I've been here about two months. I've had the opportunity to live and observe the daily ongoings of UAE residents. The culture here is still forming, but there are some aspects unique to Dubai.

Let's start with some important vocabulary...

Local
Function: noun
Pronunciation: \lō-kəl\
Definition: Those who are Emirati citizens, coming from Emirati families, usually raised in the Emirates
Further explanation: These guys are not your average American townies. No matter what, the status of a Local is, by default, higher than that of any other resident of Dubai. Why? Probably because Emirati citizenship is so highly selective. Less than 20% of those living in the UAE are actually citizens, and unless you are a non-Emirati female married to an Emirati male or you are the child of an Emirati male, you cannot be naturalized. Benefits for Locals includes priority in the job market and free government services, including electricity.
How to spot one: Many Locals dress in traditional Gulf attire. For men, this consists of a white, brown, blue, tan, or beige robe (called "thoub" or "kandora") and a head covering folded in a specific way, characteristic to the Gulf nation they come from. Women wear a black robe over their clothing (called "'aabaya"), and some choose to cover their hair, in whole or in part, with a black head covering.

Sheikh or Sheikha
Function: noun
Pronunciation: \shēkh\
Definition: Males or females in the bloodline of an Emirati ruling family
Further explanation: There are seven Emirates, or small kingdoms, in the UAE, each ruled by a different family. These families are large, prominent and well established, particularly within their own Emirates, and those who are members are considered royalty. In most of the Arab world, a Sheikh is a religious or community leader, but in the UAE, the terms "Sheikh" (for males) or "Sheikha" (for females) is used to mean "prince" or "princess".
How to spot one: You can spot a Sheikh's car a mile away. The license plates have only one or two numbers (there's a whole class system for license plates, which I'll get into later), and their windows are completely tinted or mirror tinted so you can't see inside--oh, and of course, they drive the fanciest cars (they probably own multiple). What's cool about these guys, though, is that if you saw them walking down the street, you can't tell them apart from any other Local. Unlike the dress code elsewhere, there is no Louis Vuitton, Gucci, or Christian Dior for Gulf attire, and even if there was, I'm sure people wouldn't choose to wear them. Maybe it's a sense of pride in their heritage and their culture, or a unifying quality. Or maybe I'm reading too m
uch into it.

Cafeteria
Function: noun
Pronunciation: /ka-fə-ˈtir-ē-ə/
Definition: Shady-looking hole in the wall restaurants that actually serve the best juice cocktails and sandwiches you can imagine
Further explanation: Unlike in the States, a cafeteria in Dubai is a small, locally-owned restaurant where Locals tend to stop by for a snack or a drink. These places are best known for their (non-alcoholic) fresh-juice cocktails--which are absolu
tely delicious. A menu at a cafeteria is literally a booklet (pages upon pages) of different juice mixes--if you ask the waiter to list them off, you could be sitting there for a good 15 minutes until he's done. The reason there are so many is that a person can come in and ask for a specific cocktail, and they'll make it for you---then they'll make it official by naming it after you and slapping it on the menu. Gotta love Dubai.

Ma'amsir
Function: noun
Pronunciation: \mam-sər\
Definition: A term of recognition for both men and women being served by a Filippino immigrant
Further explanation: In Dubai, there are MANY immigrant workers. The longer you stay here, the more likely it is that you'll be learning a whole new kind of English. Ma'amsir, is one of those words. It does not matter whether you are very clearly a man or a woman, the term is always ma'amsir. I guess they just want to make sure they've got all their bases covered.

Cruise
Function: verb
Pronunciation: \krüz\
Definition: A recreational activity among UAE residents (Locals and the general Arab population)
Further explanation: Cruising can be carried out for multiple purposes. Gas is cheap, so people can for a drive for the sake of it. Driving in Dubai late at night can be really pleasant, I don't know if this is because of or despite the strict traffic laws. Now, there can be an ulterior motive to cruising. For example, I'm sitting in the passenger side minding my own business, chatting away. All of a sudden, I notice the car next to me (let's say, a Range Rover, tinted windows) has cracked its windows open, and all I see is the top of a guy's head and a pair of eyes. If he likes what he sees, or I give him some attention, the window slowly comes down a little further, and I hear a "Hi geerrrrlzz!", "How arrrre you, bootiful geerrrlzz?", or something along those lines. I'm not sure if this usually works when picking up chicks. From personal experience, I can say that it does not.

That's the lesson for today, boys and girls. Thank you for reading, ma'amsir.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Back track to day minus 1

This is a little late to talk about my first real Dubai experience, but you know what they say, better late than never.

The Dubai experience of all things luxurious and convenient started well before arriving in Dubai--all the way back at JFK Airport in New York city. I boarded my Emirates Airlines flight, expecting a crowded, stuffy cabin, when I was greeted by an extraordinarily pleasant stewardess, dressed in a classy EA flight attendant uniform with a cool little red hat. My anxiety of riding a plane for 12-13 hours started to dissipate. Somehow, I managed to select my seat in the one row that was full, but upon realizing this, one of these lovely EA attendants took it upon herself to kindly escort me to a seat with a little more space. "THIS IS HEAVEN!" I thought to myself...and I didn't even discover the entertainment system yet.

Before take off, the stewardesses came down the aisles distributing warm towels of wonderfulness. Really, they were just microwaved damp cloths, but they felt amazing. Soon after, I explored the larger-than-normal screen of goodies and entertainment in front of me. Never in my life has sitting in one place for half a day gone by so quickly. Thanks to their super-personalized in-flight entertainment system, consisting of movies, tv shows, games, chat services, and so much more, I was actually kind of sad to leave the plane once we arrived. I felt like I made myself a little home there. It was wonderful.

Sunday, April 4, 2010

Welcome to everyday in Dubai

Dubai is a special city. It has to be one of the most paradoxical cities to ever exist. On a fundamental level, Dubai is deeply rooted in the traditions of the Arabian Gulf; and yet, it has the qualities of contemporary Western societies, in terms of physical development, financial growth, and social norms.

Now, should you travel to anywhere else in the world, these two cultures just don't mix (more on these differences later), but in the wonderland that is Dubai, the Gulf and the West live happily and comfortably together.

Take "Abood's" and "Khalood's" daily stroll on the beach for an example:


Welcome to everyday in Dubai.